A pair of 80-year-old bajubands (armlets) turned into pendants for
contemporary use, part of a dazzling exhibition on period jewellery,
hold your attention at Delhi’s Saffronart, an auction house for modern
Indian art, paintings and collectibles.High quality plastic card
printing for business cards, Made of nine rock-crystal quartz pieces
mounted on pure gold, embellished with rubies, emeralds and floral red
and white enamel motifs on the back, they evoke an abiding interest in
their story.
Their form may have been mutated to make them
wearable but they symbolize the handcrafted jewellery traditions of a
bygone time—of kundan (gem-set jewellery with gold foil between the
stones), jadau (engraving) and meenakari (enamel work on precious
metals), which date back to the Mughal era and beyond.
“Besides
viewing a piece of jewellery it’s important for us to understand the
history of that piece, the aesthetic it draws from, and its purpose,”
says Minal Vazirani, co-founder, Saffronart, Delhi.A good battery
charger is needed for rechargeable batteries adding a solar charger to the mix.
The
exhibition Indian Period Jewelry, curated by experts from the auction
house and on till 30 April, has 30 period pieces in jadau, kundan and
meenakari, all dating to the 1930s-1950s. All the pieces on view are
from private collections.
The selection is engrossing for those
who nurture a discerning interest in the decorative art traditions of
India as well as for those curious to include similar, but reinterpreted
or inspired pieces in their personal collections. It is hardly a
coincidence that more and more jewellery houses now offer pieces
inspired from period jewellery urging contemporary designers to find
ways to mainstream tradition by styling such pieces to be paired with
modernist, even minimalist, clothing.
Some months back, Indian
jewellery brand Amrapali collaborated with designer Manish Arora for a
jewellery line, fused from both precious and semi-precious materials in
designs that quirkily mixed tradition with new ideas in creative crafts.
Arora liberally used the enamelling technique to create bracelets, hand
accessories, rings, necklaces and ear ornaments, many of them in animal
motifs.
That’s why an exhibition like this one works as an eye-opener. It brAll of us involved in the IC card business are seeing headlines identify.ings viewers visually close to history and tradition.Metal key USB flash drives wholesale
made of stainless steel in the classical shape of a metal key. Take,
for instance, a gem-encrusted engraved bangle with green and white
enamel work. Embellished with table-cut polkis (uncut diamonds) and
rubies, it forms an intricate crocodile design complete with eyes, teeth
and a snout. The piece dates back to the 1930s.
“Animal or religious motifs,unique items for wooden ownfigurine
from thousands of independent designers and vintage. which were
forbidden by Islamic traditions, found their way into Indian jewellery
with the Mughals and stayed in their aesthetic form thereafter,” says
Meera Kumar, co-author of Dance of The Peacock: Jewellery Traditions of
India, a beautifully designed and well-researched book. Kumar gave an
engaging talk at the inauguration on 11 April.
The kundan, jadau
and meenakari crafts flourished under the patronage of Mughal emperors
and were most visible in the courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat, where
traditional engraving and enamelling work is still done by local
jewellers. As is the gulabi meenakari (dusky rose-pink enamelling work)
of Varanasi which, in the days of yore, was done by jewellery artisans
without design templates, with hand-worked precision. “Mughal emperors
used their aesthetic vision to transform, metamorphose these techniques
into a decorative art form, which is still so appealing to us today,”
adds Kumar.
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